Monday, July 29, 2013

FiveTen Siren Climbing Shoe,Merlot,8 D US

FiveTen Siren Climbing Shoe,Merlot,8 D US

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Price: $124.99 $124.95   Updated Price for FiveTen Siren Climbing Shoe,Merlot,8 D US now
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Product Feature

  • Designed for all-around performance from faces to cracks to indoor bouldering

Product Description

Bold, wild and beautiful. The women's Siren climbs with unrivaled strength and precision. This lightweight lace-up has out of the box comfort and an amazing fit. It's designed for all-around performance from faces to cracks to indoor bouldering.

FiveTen Siren Climbing Shoe,Merlot,8 D US Review

I bought this pair to replace the 2009 version of the FiveTen Sirens that I had previously. These ones seem to fit a bit roomier than my old ones in width (maybe 1/4 size), despite the fact that my previous ones had stretched half a size in the years of use. The toes are a little tigher, but I expect those to stretch.

I am not a fan of the color - the old ones were blue and showed chalk a little less and were more my style.

Sadly, these shoes retained the one thing that I disliked about my old shoes and they got rid of one of my favorite features

The Same: The eyelets for the laces are soft suede-like fabric, which rip quite easily. After a few months with my old shoes, the top loops ripped and I could only tighten my shoe lower, which made heel-hooks impossible, since I can't cinch the shoe tight to my upper foot. I had hoped this new version would include some reinforcement, but it doesn't.

The Change: The new version of the shoes no longer come with speed bungee laces. I had put off using the speed laces for a year, but when I switched, I LOVED the fit. The thin stretch laces allow you to pull from the top and the entire shoe equalizes to a consistent tightness, unlike with the standard bump-style laces that come with the newer shoe, which require lots of fiddling to get each row of laces in the right place. This wouldn't be such a big deal, either, if I didn't have to be so careful not to pull on the laces for fear of ripping the shoe.

Despite how much I love the other features of this shoe (comfortable enough to wear all day, great stiffness for slab, much better fit and durability than the more popular Evolv Elektras), unless FiveTen updates these issues, this will likely be my last pair of Sirens.

I should also note here that these shoes are mostly great for top-roping with a specialty for slab. I would likely go with a softer and down-ward curved shoe if you are more into overhangs or bouldering.

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